Sometimes, when we are looking for something specific, we really have to get creative.  I have been trying and trying to find a detailed design that would fit inside a 4-inch hoop with a little tautness. I decided to try the Crocodile Stitch Afghan Block at first, but I had to come up with my own edging to make it work within a circle. Then, I decided I wanted to change the way the middle looked. And after many changes, this is what I came up with. 

Rhiannon

Size: 4-inches after blocking or attached to hoop
Thread: size 10, about 100-150 yards
Hook: 1.50mm

You can download a PDF version of this pattern that is printer-friendly here.

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I have written up how to work this pattern specifically for a hoop, but I have also added details afterward explaining how to make it just as a mini-doily or coaster if you prefer that instead. You will only make a minor change to the final round.

This pattern is an adaptation of the Crocodile Stitch Afghan Block for the purpose of making a mini-doily or ornament.  Several rows have been added and changed.  I have included several rows of BLO for aesthetic reasons, and as it happens to be one of my favorite stitches to refine a work.  If you prefer to stick with a square, please refer to the Afghan Block instead.

**Special Note**
I prefer to start every row that begins with a DC with what is called a "Chainless Starting Double Crochet" stitch instead of a CH3. The reason I do this is because it creates a much more seamless join. The first few times you attempt this stitch, you might hate it; but after you get the hang of it, you more than likely will not go back to doing a simple chain to start. If you prefer to keep doing a chain instead, just substitute that in place of "CSDC" in the pattern. Also, "stitch" refers to anything but a CH.

CH6. Join to form a circle.

ROUND 1
CSDC, 15 DC into the circle. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch. [16 DC]
Sorry for the blurry quality of this photo, but it's difficult to mess up 16 DC in a circle, so I think you'll be fine.

ROUND 2
CSDC, CH1. (DC in next stitch, CH1) around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch. [16 DC]

ROUND 3
CH1, SC in same stitch. 2SC in next space, SC in next stitch, SC in next space, (SC in next stitch, 2SC in next space, SC in next stitch, SC in next space) around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch. [40 SC]

**This next round is where I joined a new color.**

ROUND 4
This entire row is done in the Back Loop Only. CH1, SC in same stitch. TC in next stitch, SC in next two stitches, CH6, SLST into side of last SC made, SC in next stitch, (SC in next stitch, TC in next stitch, SC in next two stitches, CH6, SLST into side of last SC made, SC in next stitch) around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch. When you are finished with this round, use your hook (or a second hook), to pull your TC "bumps" forward so that they are bumping on the front of your work.

This picture below shows purple thread.  I forgot to take a picture of this round when I was working with the blue thread, so I took the picture the next time I made this ornament, but with purple.  Hopefully it isn't confusing.

ROUND 5
CH1, [SC in TC from last round, (5DC, CH2, SC into side of last DC made, 5DC) in CH6] around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch. 

ROUND 6
CH1, SC in same stitch, CH3, SC in stitch in the middle space of the petal created by previous round, CH3, [SC in SC between the next petals (you will have to push the petal forward and work behind it), CH3, SC in stitch in the middle space of the petal created by previous round, CH3] around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch.

This next pictures shows how it looks from the back:

**This next round is where I joined a new color.**

ROUND 7
Join new thread to the SC that was made in the center of the petals created in round 5. CH1, SC in same stitch, 3SC in next space, SC in next SC, CH6, SLST into side of last SC made, 3SC in next space, (SC in next SC, 3SC in next space, SC in next SC, CH6, SLST into side of last SC made, 3SC in next space) around. Join to beginning stitch.

ROUND 8
CH1, SC in same stitch, (5DC, CH2, SC into side of last DC made, 5DC) in CH6, skip three SC, SC in next SC, [(5DC, CH2, SC into side of last DC made, 5DC) in CH6, skip three SC, SC in next SC] around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch. 

**This next round is where I joined a new color.**

ROUND 9
This entire row is done in the Back Loop Only. Join new thread to the 5th DC of any petal (this is the DC located immediately before the "CH2, SC into side of last DC made"). CSDC, CH1, (DC, CH3, DC) into 2nd CH of CH2 space, CH1, (skip one stitch, DC in next stitch, CH1) twice, SC into 2nd CH of CH2 space of the petal on the previous round, CH1, DC in the 3rd DC of next petal on this round (round 9), CH1, skip one stitch, [DC in next stitch, CH1, (DC, CH3, DC) into 2nd CH of CH2 space, CH1, (skip one stitch, DC in next stitch, CH1) twice, SC into 2nd CH of CH2 space of the petal on the previous round, CH1, DC in the 3rd DC of next petal on this round (round 9), CH1, skip one stitch] around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch.

**These next two rounds will be written a little oddly, but are very, very easy.**

ROUND 10
CH1. SC in all the DC around / SC in all the CH-1 spaces around / 3SC in all the CH-3 spaces around / skip the SC stitches that connected to round 8.

10.jpg

**This next round is where I joined a new color.**

ROUND 11
This entire row is done in the Back Loop Only. CH1, SC in every stitch around except for these two places: (1) 3SC into the middle SC of all the points (be sure to attach your hoop with the very middle SC made), and then (2) for the two SC that are in the valleys, SC them together with a 2SCtog stitch. **Alternately, to make a mini-doily or coaster, instead of doing 3SC in all the of the points, instead do "SC, CH-5 picot, SC" in all the points.**

Cut thread, fasten, weave in all ends. If you made the doily version instead of attaching to a hoop, you will need to block appropriately.